Huánuco is not particularly attractive, and most buildings are fairly recent, although it has a pleasant feel, making it a good place to relax. Although there is not much to see in the city itself, there are several very interesting areas nearby, and the city makes a good base from which to explore these. The shady Plaza de Armas is agreeable, and the modern cathedral is worth a look in. The Museo de Ciencias (*) (Jr. General Prado 495, open Mon-Fri 9am-12pm, 3pm-6pm, Sat, Sun 10am-12pm, entrance $0.30) has a collection of stuffed jungle animals and birds as well as some shells and fossils, and a very small archaeological collection.
**Kotosh
6km outside of Huánuco, and easily visited from the city, are the ruins of Kotosh (open daily, entrance $0.70). The site is one of the oldest in Peru, and was occupied from 2000BC to 700AD. The name Kotosh means pile, and refers to the piles of rocks that were found throughout the site. The site is famous for the Templo de las Manos Cruzadas (temple of the crossed hands), where two images of crossed arms were discovered. Copies of these two images can be seen in the temple. The original of one set of hands is in the Museo de Arqueología and Antropología in Lima, while the other set was destroyed. It is thought that the two sets of hands were meant to represent male and female. Apart from the Temple of the Crossed Hands there is not much to see now at Kotosh, although a guide will explain much about the Kotosh culture.
A taxi charges around $3 for the return journey to the ruins, including a 30-minute wait, which is enough to see the site. There are very few buses that pass the ruins, although those going to La Unión pass the ruins. Alternatively, it is possible to walk to the ruins, taking around 1 ? 1½ hours in the hot sun. Follow 2 de Mayo west of the Plaza along the river.
The area around Huánuco contains some fascinating archaeological sites set in incredible scenery.
Tantamayo
Probably the most interesting archaeological site in the area is that of Tantamayo. There are actually over 250 different ruins from the Yarowilca culture in the Tantamayo area, and the area really requires a minimum of 3 days to explore well. The most interesting ruins are those of Susupio, Hapayán, Piruro and Selmín Granero. Most of the ruins are within easy walking distance of the village of Tantamayo, where there is a hostel and there are some basic places to eat. Eladio Maticorena is a good guide from the village.
The ruins here are known at the pre-Hispanic skyscrapers, and the Yarowilca people built buildings up to seven stories high. The Yarowilca culture was dominant in the area from 1200AD until the arrival of the Incas in around 1450AD.
It is straightforward to take a bus to Tantamayo and visit the ruins independently. However, if you wish to visit with an agency, Mya Tours in Huánuco is helpful and knowledgeable.
Lagunas Pichgacocha
Not far from Huánuco is the beautiful area around the Pichgacocha lakes. These are five lakes joined together by rivers and small waterfalls, and the area is excellent for walking and camping. The closest town to the lakes is La Libertad. Combis leave for here from Jr. Aguilar block 4.
Huánuco Pampa (Huánuco Viejo)
The impressive Inca ruins of ruins of Huánuco Pampa lie close to the town of La Unión.
From La Unión it is possible to carry on to Huaraz. Transportes Yungay has a bus at 4am, taking 5 hours.
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