The area around Tarma offers some excellent walking, and there are many archaeological sites than can be reached on foot. There are no good maps of the area, although a guide to accompany you can be hired from one of the agencies in town. The valley is very beautiful and is the main flower-growing region in Peru. One of the main ruins in the area is that of Tarmatambo, 6km from Tarma. This was an Inca administrative centre and there remains of temples, palaces, houses, storehouses, a cemetery and an irrigation system that is still in use today. Other archaeological sites include Murallapunta, Incachaca, Pucamarca, Ricrán and Collapata. There are several places in the area where you can camp.
**San Pedro de Cajas
The traditional village of San Pedro de Cajas, 41km from Tarma, is in a beautiful setting, with patchwork fields on the hills surrounding the village. The town is famous for the production of weavings of traditional Peruvian village scenes, and much of the population is dedicated to the production of these textiles. The weavings from San Pedro de Cajas are the finest in all of the Peru, and a large, high-quality textile can cost several hundred dollars, although this is still much cheaper than what you would pay in Lima. There are many workshops that can be visited and the weavers can be seen at work. One of the best is the Casa del Artesano I Leon, on the corner of the Plaza de Armas, although there are plenty of others on the streets surrounding the Plaza. San Pedro de Cajas celebrates the Festival de Puchka on June 28 to 30.
There is basic accommodation in the Hostal Oscanoa opposite the hospital, just off the Plaza. This charges $2 per person for a room with a shared bathroom and cold water only. Food can be bought in a couple of very basic restaurants, and there are a couple of simple grocery shops on the Plaza. There are a few phone boxes on the Plaza. There are hourly colectivos to and from Tarma, taking 1½, for $1.50.
***Gruta de Huagapo
The journey to San Pedro is very beautiful, through red and green hills, and many rocky mountains and bubbling brooks. 8km before San Pedro de Cajas is the Gruta de Huagapo, the deepest explored cave in South America. It is straightforward to enter the cave to 300m, although if you are prepared to get wet it is possible to enter almost 3km. The cave has a very beautiful entrance with an underground river flowing out, creating a beautiful waterfall. The underground river gives the cave its name. Huagapo means ?cave that cries? in Quechua. The cave is full of interesting stalactites and stalagmites, and a torch is essential. A rope is also useful to explore certain parts of the cave. There are many guides, mostly local boys, who will guide you in the cave and provide ropes and torches for a small tip. There is a $0.30 entrance fee to the cave.
If you are interested in exploring beyond 300m, you must wade chest-deep through the underground river. A wetsuit is helpful, but if you don?t mind the cold, and have a change of clothes, it is also possible to enter in normal clothes. A guide is essential for this, and one of the local boys can provide you with an experienced guide if required. It is possible to reach 1,600m into the cave like this. If you want to reach the bottom of the cave professional equipment is required, which must be brought to Tarma, as it is unavailable here. Some diving is required, so oxygen tanks are also needed. La Gruta de Rosario, another deep cave, is nearby.
Colectivos to San Pedro de Cajas pass the cave, 1 hour from Tarma. There is a place to eat the local river trout at the base of the cave. There is more transport from Palcamayo, 4km from the cave. This walk through the valley is beautiful, and the red mountains surrounding Palcamayo are impressive.
**Santuario de Muruhuay
The small town of Acobamba 10km from Tarma is famous for the Muruhuay Sanctuary. On a mountain above Acobamba a large chapel has been built on top of the image of the very miraculous Señor de Muruhuay. Pilgrims from all over Peru visit the site throughout the year to pray to the Señor, although this is most impressive in May when a festival is celebrated at the Sanctuary, and there are many, many visitors. Views from the chapel are beautiful.
There is accommodation next the sanctuary in the Hostal Campestre Auberge Normandie (T 341024, hostalnormandie@yahoo.com, www.perutravelnet.com/normandie). Rooms are fairly basic but ok, with private bathrooms and electric showers. Prices are $10 per person, including breakfast. The views from here are fabulous. There are also several places to eat Pachamanca near the sanctuary. Colectivos leave for Tarma every 2 minutes, charging $0.30 for the 15-minute journey.
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