Ayacucho is known as the city of churches, and there are 36 colonial churches throughout the city, although many say that there are 33 ? one for each year of Christ?s life. It is worth wandering round these to get an idea of the history of the city. The best place to start is the attractive, spacious Plaza de Armas, where the Cathedral (**), with its ornate gilded altar, is located. The Iglesia San Agustín (*) was built in 1637, but badly destroyed in an earthquake in 1719 and has been largely rebuilt. The 17th century Iglesia La Compañía (**) has a pretty, carved facade and an impressive ornate gilded altar. The Convent of Santa Teresa (**) is a pretty, working convent with attractive cloisters. It is open every day except Thursday and Sunday from 8am to 12pm and 3.30pm to 6pm. Opposite Santa Teresa is San Cristóbal (**), the oldest church in Ayacucho, built in 1540. The bodies of the Pizzarists and Almagrists who died in the battle of Chupas in 1542 are buried here. The church is not open to visitors as the structure is in a dangerous state of repair.
There are also several interesting colonial houses in Ayacucho. The Casona Chacón (*), on the Plaza de Armas, houses the Banco de Crédito and the Museo de Arte Popular, and has an attractive courtyard. This has a small collection of retablos and other local art. The Museo Cáceres (*), in the beautiful Casona Vivanco (28 de Julio 508), houses a collection of 19th century period furniture and some Cusqueña school paintings. The Museo Histórico Regional (Av. Bolívar s/n, take a taxi) has a decent archaeological collection of Inca and Wari artefacts.
The Barrio Santa Ana (***) is well worth wandering round for its wonderful craft shops. This is the main crafts district in Ayacucho, and there are 800 craftsmen who work in the area. It is possible to visit the workshops of many of the artists and see them at work. Most of the crafts shops only sell the crafts produced in that particular workshop, so it is worth wandering round as the products vary from shop to shop. Some of the finest textiles are found in the workshop of Gregorio Sulca Chávez (Mariscal Castilla 302) and his brother Alfonso Sulca Chávez (José Gálvez 202). Also excellent is the work by Alejandro Gallardo (Plazuela Santa Ana 105). The best work in Huamanga stone is produced by the Gálvez family (Plazoleta Santa Ana 12), with excellent, but expensive carvings. Also good is Marcelino Pomatella (Jr. Paris 114). The Oncebay family (Jr. Paris 600) produces cheaper, although slightly cruder, work in Huamanga stone.
The Church of Santa Ana, on the Plaza in Santa Ana, is also worth visiting. Santa Ana celebrates a large festival on August 30, although the largest festivities are reserved for the Sunday closest to this date. There are processions, dances and lots of food, as well as a small bull run in the Pamplona tradition.
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