Trekking in the Colca Canyon
Cabanaconde makes a good base for walking in the Colca region, and is the start point for all walks into the canyon. The most popular walk in the area is from Cabanaconde to the Oasis (Sangalle) next to the river. This walk descends 1,300 metres down the side of the canyon on a very impressive trail, giving fine views of the river and the mountains. The rock strata passed while descending are very impressive. The walk down takes about 1½ to 2 hours, and is straightforward, although at points the trail is quite steep and slippery. The trail down is easy to find, although it is a good idea to ask the people working in the fields if it is the correct path, as there are a couple of points near the beginning where you can go wrong. Head past the Hostal Valle del Fuego from the Plaza, and cross the rubbish heap. When you come to the canyon you can see a blue swimming pool next to the river. That is the oasis.
The oasis itself is a spot next to the river with palm trees and fruit plantations and it is very attractive. The reds, yellows, oranges, browns and greys of the surrounding cliffs make a pretty contrast to the vegetation and the river. Most people come here to relax, and the climate at less than 2,000m altitude is far more pleasant than at the top of the canyon. There are two places to stay, both offering accommodation in basic huts made from palm leaves. Both have swimming pools, although the pool in the lower of the two places is more attractive, with a small cascade and a wonderful rock to leap from. Both places charge about $3 per person, including use of the pool, prepare basic food and sell water and snacks. It is also possible to camp at the oasis. You can either hire a tent from either of the places offering accommodation, or pitch your own.
The walk from the oasis back to Cabanaconde is far more tiring than the descent. The path is quite steep, and the altitude often affects people. The walk back takes about 3 to 4 hours. Most people spend the night at the oasis and walk up the following day, although it is possible to walk down and up in the same day. It is a good idea to leave heavy bags in Cabanaconde, as the ascent is far more difficult if you are carrying your entire luggage. Any hotel should look after bags for a small fee.
It is also possible to walk a circuit from Cabanaconde, descending to the river before climbing to the villages of San Juan de Chucchu and Tapay, before descending again to the oasis. From there, you can return to Cabanaconde. The entire walk takes about 8 hours, and can be done over one or two days.
There is a walk from Cabanaconde to the Baños del Condor where it is possible to see condors washing themselves, normally between 10am and 1pm. This is about a three-hour walk from Cabanaconde, and a guide is useful.
A longer trek beginning in Cabanaconde crosses the canyon to arrive in Andagua and the Valley of the Volcanoes. This takes about five to six days and passes some very traditional towns.
A four-day trek from Cabanaconde goes to the pretty waterfall at Huaruro. This descents into the canyon and passes the Pajía geyser next to the river. The geyser has a continuous spray of about 3 metres, although in the rainy season this sometimes shoots up to over 100 metres. It is possible to walk to the geyser and back in one day.
There is a six-hour walk to three geysers starting in Pinchollo. Unfortunately, the Infernillo geyser, which was the most impressive of the three, was blocked in the earthquake on 2001 and cannot be seen, although it may be unblocked at some stage. The Fuye geyser, which is permanent, reaches a height of about 3 metres. There is another unnamed geyser close to the other two, although a guide is required to find this. The agency in the Plaza de Armas in Cabanaconde can provide guides if required.
It is also possible to hike from Pinchollo to the Laguna de Amocurca, near the volcano Ampato. It is possible to climb Ampato from here, although a guide is a good idea. The entire climb takes about five days.
It is best to go with a guide on the longer trails, and the agency in the Plaza de Armas in Cabanaconde can organise walks.
Climbing in the Colca Canyon
The Colca has many high peaks that can be climbed, and present interest not only in the climb itself, but also in the importance of the mountains. Most had spiritual importance for the inhabitants of the area. Coropuna, at 6,613m, is the third-highest mountain in Peru. And Ampato, at 6,310m, is where the remains of the Inca mummy'Juanita' were discovered. Mismi, at 5,597m, is accepted as the true source of the Amazon River. In an expedition to the area by Jacques Cousteau in the 1980s, an engraving of a toucan was found in a cave, indicating that the inhabitants knew of the links between this area and the Amazon basin. Climbing guides can be found in Arequipa or in Cabanaconde.
Rafting in the Colca Canyon
The first rafting expedition in the Colca was carried out by the Polish Student Expedition in 1981, where they travelled from Canco to the Andamayo River, where the Colca River becomes the River Majes. Initially, the expedition tried to leave from Cabanaconde, but the difficulty of the rapids and rocks damaged their kayaks and inflatable boats.
Since then, a number of further rafting expeditions have been carried out, but given the extreme difficulty of the river, and the impossibility of rescue in case of accidents, these are still rare. The river is extremely dangerous, and experienced canoeists have lost their lives attempting to navigate it. Therefore, rafting on the lower part of the river should only be attempted by the experienced and as part of a well-organised group.
However, it is possible to raft on the upper part of the river, and Colca Adventures in the Plaza de Armas of Chivay organises 1½-hour trips, reaching about class III, which are suitable for beginners.
Mountain biking
It is possible to cycle in much of the canyon, and there are many pretty rides through traditional towns. Some of these are quite easy, although obviously the scope for more challenging riding is high. Mountain bikes can be hired from Colca Adventures in the Plaza de Armas in Chivay. The company also organises guided half-day tours around Chivay.
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